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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. However, nestled prominently among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the family totally shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary achievement.